Savory Tomato Cobbler

I used to work for a non-profit that sent me on wild and sometimes odd adventures around the country. One of those times I was flying back to San Diego from a wedding and was asked to get off the plane and meet up with one our traveling teams in the southeast. I ended up in downtown Atlanta, in an industrial loft of friends of a friend, singing "Wagon Wheel," making food, and dreaming about tomato cobbler. I can't remember the conversation trail to how this idea came about, but it's been in the back of my mind since. While there are many things that I love about living in California, my southern roots miss the warm, carb-topped comfort foods that epitomize the South. Tomatoes, chicken, and biscuits are pretty humble staples of southern cuisine, but plenty of magic can be made from them. This warm and savory cobbler, with a hint of spicy harissa, is the perfect transitional dish from late summer into those early fall, cool nights.

I've included a few variations to this dish, as the both the filling and biscuits recipes can work on their own. The cobbler can easily be made vegetarian by skipping the chicken and going straight tomato or subbing for vegetables like roasted zucchini and cauliflower. You can also short-cut this recipe by using store-bought biscuit dough (but trust me, if you have the extra time, it's worth using scratch-made biscuits). 

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Savory Tomato Cobbler

COBBLER FILLING

• Olive oil
• 1 lb boneless chicken (optional)
• 2 Tbsp sherry or wine vinegar
• 1 small white onion, halved and thinly sliced
• 4 garlic cloves
• 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp ground fennel seeds
• 4-6 tsp harissa paste
• 2 lbs of heirloom cherry tomatoes
• 3 Tbsp cane sugar
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 1/2-1 tsp kosher salt
• 1 Tbsp + 1 tsp cornstarch
• Biscuit Topping (recipe follows)
• Heavy cream or ricotta for serving (optional)

Heat a wide pot or large and deep skillet over a medium flame and add two tablespoons of oil. Brown the chicken for 5-6 minutes on each side. Set aside. 

Reduce heat to medium-low and deglaze the pan with 1 tablespoon of vinegar. Add another tablespoon or two of oil to the pan and stir in the onions. Cook for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally until the onions soften and start to turn translucent. While the onions are cooking, mince the garlic and cut about three-quarters of the tomatoes in half, leaving a handful or two whole. 

When the onions have softened, add the minced garlic, cumin, fennel, and harissa. Stir and toast the spices until fragrant (about a minute). Add in the tomatoes and sugar, stirring until combined. Heat until the juices come to a soft simmer. Continue simmering for 20 minutes to reduce the tomatoes and lower the heat if the juices begin to boil or come to a hard simmer. Gently stir on occasion to keep them from burning, taking care to not break down the tomato piece too much. After 20 minutes, mix in the remaining tablespoon of vinegar, lemon zest and half a teaspoon of salt. Taste and add additional salt, if necessary.

Shred the chicken and fold into the tomatoes. Mix cornstarch with a tablespoon of water and add to the tomato mixture. Simmer for a few minutes, until the mixture starts to thicken. Remove from the heat. Fill a 10” deep dish pie pan, cast iron skillet, or other oven-proof dish of similar size with the mixture. Set aside.

Preheat your oven to 400℉. Make the biscuit topping (instructions below) and place biscuits over the tomato filling, leaving a few small gaps for the cobbler to release moisture as it bakes. Brush the tops with the remaining tablespoon of milk. Place in the middle rack of your oven with a baking sheet or piece of foil underneath to catch any bubbling. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the tops of the biscuits are a nice golden brown and the cobbler is bubbling on the edges. 

Remove and serve warm in a bowl with a small pour of heavy cream or scoop of ricotta. 

BISCUIT TOPPING

• 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour + some for dusting
• 2 tsp baking powder
• 1/4 tsp baking soda
• 1 tsp cane sugar
• 1 ½ tsp kosher salt
• 6 Tbsp cold butter, cut into small cubes
• 1/2 cup whole milk ricotta cheese or sour cream 
• 1/2 cup whole or buttermilk + 1 Tbsp set aside

In the bowl of a food processor, combine all dry ingredients, minus the butter, and pulse to thoroughly combine. Add the butter and pulse a few times until the largest pieces are the size of English peas. The texture should be crumbly with only a small number of big butter pieces. You can also use work the butter in with a pastry cutter or by hand (like you would for a pie crust) if preferred.

Pour dry mix into a large mixing bowl. Whisk the ricotta and milk together until the texture is mostly smooth. Pour a third over the flour mixture and begin gently folding everything together with a fork, just until the wet and dry ingredients are beginning to come together. Continue in thirds until the milk is fully incorporated. At this point, you will finish the process mostly by hands (things will get a bit messy, but that's part of the fun). Knead a few times by hand until the shaggy dough starts to form a single mass. The dough will look a bit dry and crumbly. 

Lightly flour a smooth surface and turn out the dough. Gently fold the mixture together a few times to incorporate most of the dry goods. Press into a 1.5-2” thick rectangle, working any bits of dry goods left into the sticky areas of dough. Cut the dough in half, crosswise, using a bench scraper or knife. Stack one half on top of the other and press down to flatten a bit. Sprinkle the dough and work surface with additional flour, if needed, to help keep the dough from sticking to your hands or the work surface. Roll the dough to 1” thick rectangle. Cut the biscuits into squares with a knife or circles with a round biscuit or cookie cutter. The dough should yield 8 pieces. Use any scraps to fill major gaps in the cobbler top, or reform into a small biscuit and bake separately for a cook’s treat. 

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VARIATIONS

Chutney: Skip using the chicken and begin the recipe until you start simmering the tomatoes. Extend the simmer time to 40-50 minutes, stirring frequently, until they become thick like preserves. The tomatoes are done when you can pull a spoon across the bottom of the pan and it creates a clear trail with the tomatoes flowing back in to fill the space in a second or two. Add the remaining vinegar and half a teaspoon of salt. Taste and adjust seasoning if desired. Remove from heat and transfer to sterilized jars for water bath preserving, or an airtight container and refrigerate for up two weeks.  

Biscuits: Make dough as directed until forming the initial rectangle. Cut into quarters and stack each on top of each other. Press down to flatten a bit. Sprinkle the dough and work surface with additional flour, if needed, to help keep the dough from sticking to your hands or the work surface. Roll the dough to 1.5” thick rectangle. Cut the biscuits into squares with a knife or circles with a round biscuit or cookie cutter. 

Place on a lined baking sheet 1-2” apart and brush the tops with remaining tablespoon of milk or melted butter. Bake on the middle oven rack for 20-25 minutes or until a deep golden brown on top. Remove from the oven and carefully move the biscuits to a cooling rack. Enjoy, hot, with soft butter and drizzled honey or a generous slather of tomato chutney.

Farmer's Market Methodology

How to Balance Flavor & Finances While Being Farmer-Friendly  

If you’ve been following my blog for any length of time now, you’ve probably realized that I love farmers markets. I don’t mean like “OMG, this is so cute, I love it!”, more like “what fresh heaven on earth is this and can I live here?” Admittedly, this is partly because they appeal to my fascination with simpler ways of life, centuries past - when people strolled casually through cobblestone streets to get the early pick of a merchant’s newest offerings of baked goods and produce, planning their meals for the days ahead as a little bird lights gently on their shoulder to serenade them (and then made cakes with lots of brandy in them). Ok, maybe I’m over-romanticizing. I mean, those cobblestone streets were filled with who-knows-what; and when was the last time a little bird flew up to you with any other intention than to leave you with...Anyways, it’s safe to say that I’m pretty happy with modern comforts and conveniences, but I also love my weekly strolls down the closed city blocks, market bag in tow, to pick out my food for the week. However, it’s less about my romanticizing of simpler times and more about my love for really good tasting food.

The way I see it, there are three main perks of shopping at a farmer’s market; you get to support your local economy, the food tastes better, and it’s fun!

A recent study by UC Davis found that every dollar spent at a local farmer’s market, or at market-direct farms, is twice as effective at influencing the strength of a local economy over buying from a supermarket. Something I find odd about our current culture is how we seek out our favorite local coffee shop, dine at that new farm-to-table restaurant and shop makers fairs for local artisan goods but still purchase our groceries from a standard grocery store. I'm not here to browbeat anyone about how  ‘shopping ‘big-box’ style stores is evil’ (more on that later), but it’s a habit worth examining, and our food growers are a facet of our small business community we shouldn’t forget about. So, if you’re interested in keeping your community economically sound, buying direct from the farms is a great choice.

Then, as if all the socially responsible perks weren’t enough, the food you’ll find at a market is likely to taste better than what you can find in your average grocery store. Over the last several decades, shoppers have pushed the agricultural industry into favoring shelf life, ship-ability, and appearance (of all things..) over flavor. However, your local market-direct farmers don’t have to worry much about long shelf life or major transportation issues. This means you can often find the more unique or heirloom (unmodified) varieties of fruits and vegetables, often produced with more organic and sustainable growing methods.

Starting with already-delicious produce is the biggest head-start you can give yourself to making recipes and final dishes taste incredible. Plus, the more we support our local farms, the more we help to shift the food system back in a healthy direction.

Ok, I’ll be stepping off my soap box now..mostly..

Aside from the "do good" stuff, like I said, most farmer’s markets are fun! In addition to lots of really beautiful produce, they often have live music, ready-made food vendors, cut flowers, and (probably lots of) cute dogs(!). When people come to visit us in San Diego, I try to take them to a market just for the fact that it gives them a taste of our city’s culture and offerings. If you’ve recently moved to a new city or you’re just looking for something different to do on a weekend, definitely go to a market and get to know your town or neighborhood better and discover new facets of the community.

I know, I know; I can already hear your interjections that it's no secret farmer's markets have a reputation for being wallet drainers. They don’t get that reputation for nothing, but it’s not what your experience has to be every time, or ever, really.

It's not hard for the bargain hunters looking for sale items to find the best deals at the market, but I've learned a few little tricks for how to make my market dollars more effective, balancing flavor, intended use and price, when there are specific items on my shopping list. By learning what and how to buy at a market and what items can be picked up elsewhere, you can enjoy good food and support local farms even when you don't have Lady Grantham’s household budget.

Know what you want and set a budget: Start by deciding what’s most valuable to you that week and then leave yourself some room to try something new. I prioritize the items that are best when they’re fresh from my local farms. I look for seasonal fruit, tomatoes, fresh cut herbs, pastured eggs, and leafy greens by the pound (<— this one is so much cheaper from the market than the grocery store!). If it’s helpful, make a list of what you’d ideally like to buy before you go and reference back to it as you shop (I know, duh.). For example, I’ve learned the strawberries from the farm in Carlsbad would totally smash the taste of the strawberry-esque fruits from the grocery store in a Tuesday Night Smackdown, so those little berries will definitely end up as a market purchase.

There can be a lot of different farms selling the same produce at one market. You can make the shopping process easier by weighing your intended use into your decisions. When I’m looking for strawberries to make preserves, I know that I’ll be cooking them down and adding some sugar. In this case, I usually ask a farmer if they have any smashed fruit to buy at a discount or find the less expensive (and potentially less Smackdown-worthy) berries. If I’m looking for strawberries to eat fresh, I usually buy the best tasting ones. The same goes for buying produce at the market versus the grocery store. When I’m wanting tomatoes to slice for a sandwich, I’m definitely buying them from a local farmer (because flavor wins here, again). If I’m cooking some romas into a pasta sauce, you may let your budget decide if market or grocer is best. The more often you shop at a market, the more you’ll get to know the farms and their seasonal offerings. You’ll find that JR Organics has great strawberries, Good Taste grows the best citrus ever, and Luchia produces some of the finest greens around. It won’t be long before you’ll be thinking of a certain farm or booth as you make your list and you’ll know what you want and right where to get it without much thought - you might even make some new farmer friends!

Once I know what I’m looking to buy, I decide how much I can spend and run by an ATM on my way to the market. As a freelancer, my budget constantly varies and some weeks it’s virtually non-existent, so even though several farms take cards these days, by using cash, I know I’ll stay on budget - when it’s gone, I’m done. Another great (mostly unknown) feature is that lots of markets accept EBT cards and some give extra rewards for buying produce at a farmer's market. California has a great market finder for EBT, WIC, etc. accepting markets. If you are a part of one of these programs, be sure to check if your state has a directory.

Walk the market: I like to start at one end and walk the entire length of the market, “window shopping” each booth, tasting and smelling my way through (most farms have samples or will provide one if you ask). This way I get a good overall idea of what’s being offered this week and I can compare that to my priority list. Sometimes I’ll take photos on my phone to remember the farm and the price because my memory is terrible and after 4 tables of tomatoes, it can easily run together. If you aren’t sure what’s best that week or if you see something you’re unfamiliar with, ask! Remember, most of the people working are out there because they love what they’re doing and if they’re not helping five people at once, they’re often all too happy to tell you about their produce and why it’s special. They might even be able to suggest different ways prepare it or what else might go with it. It’s a great way to introduce yourself to something new and interact with the people who grew your food.

When you’ve made it to the other end, circle back around and break out that cash.

Supplement from a store as needed: I shop at a farmers market almost every week, and I still swing by Sprout’s to pick up additional items. I know that when you’re on a budget, you can’t necessarily afford all of your weekly groceries at market prices. So, buy what you can from a farmer, then get the rest at your usual places. (See, I told you grocery stores aren’t evil!)

Kris - Farmer at Good Taste Farm (photo by Van Chaplin)

Bulk Purchases and Fair Pricing: When you’re looking to make a large batch of peach preserves, canning tomatoes, or you just realllly love blueberries, don’t be afraid to ask a farm if they’ll do a bulk discount. Most farmers will gladly sell you large amounts at a discount. Just be fair in your pricing. I strongly believe people deserve to be paid for the value of what they produce. Our farmers are some the hardest working professionals in our country and what they produce is our life-blood. Many of the farmers selling at your local markets aren’t harvesting with large machines; they’re literally on hands and knees, digging your carrots out of the ground, and in some cases the day or morning before selling it to you. Some of these farmers are continuing family businesses, some are immigrants and refugees, and some are new farmers simply because they love providing people with food. I say this to illustrate the work that goes into those tables full of zucchini and watermelons, and the prices should reflect that. So, when you’re looking for a deal or to buy something at a bulk discount, be respectful in your expectations.  

One final thought; show your appreciation for the farmer's’ labor of love by wasting as little as possible and sharing it with others. And when you like something, let the farmer know! It may encourage them to continue growing that crop next season or expand their current plantings, but it’s also a really nice way to interact and build relationships with them. Personally, I think farmers deserve a thousand times more praise than they get. Here’s a little advice from one of my favorite local farmers, Sarah, of Good Taste Farm:

“The main reason to go to a farmers market is because it is FUN. You get to see beautiful produce displays, smell delicious foods, and then YOU GET TO EAT THINGS! The farmers market puts a face to the abstract concept of “food."

My market tips: Chill out and enjoy the sights! There isn't a right or wrong way to do things. It's okay to peruse without buying, but when something catches your eye, don't be afraid to buy it and try it.

Support farmers by buying from the farm stalls, not just prepared foods. We farmers work very hard to bring our farm products every week. Ask prepared food vendors if they buy from any of the farms and give your business to the ones that do.

The best compliment you can give a farmer is to tell people you know about the farm and share the food you make with others!”

I hope this helps demystify the farmer’s market shopping experience and provides you with ways to support your local farmers without breaking your bank. Just remember, you don’t need to be Lady Grantham to eat good food from talented farmers, though I know we all wish we had her style...

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I’d love to see your market adventures and what you’re filling your market baskets with, so take share your photos on Instagram! (Tag #ofthedirt and #whatsinyourbasket)

Strawberry Milk Panna Cotta

Featured: Strawberries
When ripe, strawberries should have a strong sweet aroma, rich coloring, and a sweetness that virtually melts in your mouth. I like to look for smaller berries, as they tend to be sweeter than the large ones. A hint for looking for a well ripened strawberry - look to see if the flesh is red all the way to stem's base. Many times when you purchase strawberries in the supermarkets out of season, they will be mostly white at the top. This is a sign that the berry likely doesn't have much flavor and will be white through most of the inside.

Nutrition: Rich in Vitamin C, dietary fiber and manganese. Also a good source of potassium and folate. 

Season: Depending on climate/region, harvest can begin as early as March and go into November. 

My love of panna cotta started at a friend's restaurant in Austin with a delicious concoction of vanilla panna cotta, sliced red grapes, and basil caviar. It's probably the happiest I've ever felt after eating dessert, which pretty much means I was fully elated because eating dessert already equals happiness. My love for strawberry milk goes back to childhood sleepovers at my grandmother's house with my cousin Emily. My grandmother was a pretty healthy eater - fresh fruit, whole wheat toast, bran cereal, vegetables from her backyard garden - but she enjoyed spoiling her grandchildren with Nesquik's strawberry milk. I don't think I'll ever forget the distinct yellow tin it came in and the way the pink powder floated through the air as we scooped it into our glasses of milk. When I set out to make this panna cotta, I wanted to feel both of those happy memories in the finished product, but with a more...natural flavor.

Panna cotta seems to have a reputation of being difficult to make which is why I had never attempted it before. The reality is, you can make it into a fussy dessert, but it doesn't have to be. This recipe makes it simple and doesn't require any fancy molds (therefore, no fear of unmolding and turning elation into depression). It's the perfect cool dessert for a warm day that won't quickly melt on you or require special equipment. And the best part is you can easily make it a few days in advance! Just be sure to cover the ramekins with plastic wrap or the like once the panna cotta has set (can be stored for up to a week).

You should heed one warning - do NOT use Horizon brand organic milk or cream. For some reason, it causes the panna cotta to turn gritty (which is definitely depressing). I found the best results from Organic Valley. Yes, it's more expensive. Yes, it tastes better. So, yes, it's worth the few extra bucks. And overall, this dessert is pretty economical. Also, finding the sweetest strawberries is always best, but if you need save a couple of dollars to buy the good milk, go for it. 

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Strawberry Milk Panna Cotta

• 1 lb strawberries (fresh or frozen)
• 1/2 - 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• Generous pinch of salt
• 1 1/2 cups whole milk
• 1/4 cold water
• 3 tsp gelatin (about 1 1/2 packets)
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/4 tsp almond extract
• 2 cups sliced strawberries
• A tablespoon sugar

In a medium sauce pan, combine strawberries, sugar, and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Let the strawberries bubble for 20-30 minutes, stirring frequently, allowing the juices the thicken and the flavor to concentrate. When the fruit is very soft, turn off the heat. Use a stick blender, or carefully transfer to a regular blender, to fully puree the berries. Return the pureed mixture to low heat and stir in the whole milk. 

As the milk is heating, add the water to a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface. Set aside to hydrate. When the milk mixture is hot to the touch or 120' F, whisk in the hydrated gelatin until fully dissolved. Remove from the heat. 

Set a fine mesh sieve over a mixing bowl and strain the strawberry milk through it. This will remove most seeds and any potential clumps of gelatin. Stir in the heavy cream, vanilla and almond. Pour 1/4 to 1/3 cup of the mixture into glass ramekins or small glasses. Place in the fridge to chill for at least 6 hours or overnight. 

Just before you are ready to serve, toss strawberry slices with sugar and let the berries macerate for 10 minutes or longer. Spoon over the top of each panna cotta and serve.

Yield: 6-8 servings

Edamame Hummus

If you're in search of an easy and delicious hummus recipe but want something a bit different than the traditional chickpea dip, this edamame hummus is just the right fix! Edamame beans, when pureed, aren't as dense as chickpeas so the texture of this hummus is light, almost fluffy, but strong enough to hold deep flavors and a satisfying bite. The light green color of this hummus is a beautiful compliment to your fresh seasonal produce.

I like making a meal out of hummus by serving it with a variety of fresh vegetables, a few slices of pita bread and a little bowl of olives and feta in olive oil. Add a variety of fresh herbs to your hummus for additional flavor or mix it up when you make a new batch by adding in varying combinations of herbs (cilantro, dill + mint, basil + chives), roasted peppers, or a teaspoon of curry powder. 

You can find the recipe on Bonnie Plants' website by clicking the button or image, below.

Orange Blossom & Hazelnut Teacake

The orange trees in California have been going crazy over the last few months, celebrating the massive amount of rain we received over winter. I'm not sure if you've ever had the pleasure of smelling a blooming orange tree, but it's intoxicating in the best way. There's a house a few blocks over from us that has a single tree in the front yard. On evening walks around the neighborhood, the sweet smell of its blooms fills the air before it's even in sight. This teacake is like that tree. While there are subtle floral notes in the taste, the orange blossom component has everything to do with the smell, and it fills your nose with every bite. Dense but still crumbly, it's slightly sweet and inviting the company of a slathering of jam and cup of Barry's Irish breakfast tea (because it's the best!). 

You'll notice this recipe calls for whole wheat flour, typically taboo in cake recipes as it can add too much density, leaving you without that traditional light and crumbly texture. However, I love using the ivory wheat flour in this cake. Not only does it add nutrients and a bit of protein from the whole grains, this flour adds a delicate toasty layer to the flavor profile. By nature, it does cause the cake to be denser, but that's why you whip the egg whites! This will ensure your cake achieves a nice rise and a good crumb. The addition of hazelnut flour aids in the texture and helps to keep the cake from drying out. Finished off with a brushing of orange blossom syrup, your nose and taste buds will both be thanking you for treating them so well. 

Thanks to Bob's Red Mill for supplying me with these lovely ingredients to play with! If your local grocery store doesn't carry their products you can order the Ivory Wheat flour and Hazelnut flour online!

If you aren't sure where to find orange blossom water, it's started popping up in conventional grocery stores, but any food mart that carries a good selection or specializes in Middle Eastern products should have it. You can also order it online.

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Orange Blossom & Hazelnut Tea Cake

• 1 cup Ivory Wheat Flour (or half traditonal whole wheat, half all-purpose flour)
• 1 1/2 cup hazelnut flour (can sub with almond)
• 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 2 tsp ground ginger
• 2 tsp ground cardamom
• 4 eggs
• 5 Tbsp softened coconut oil
• 3/4 cup coconut sugar
• 2 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/2 cup milk
• 2 Tbsp orange blossom water
• 3 Tbsp orange blossom syrup 

Preheat oven to 350’F. Grease an 8” cake pan and line the bottom with a round of parchment paper.

Whisk together all dry ingredients (Ivory flour through cardamom) in a small bowl to remove any clumps. Set aside.

Separate the egg yolks and whites. Set the yolks aside and add the whites to a medium mixing bowl. Beat with an electric mixer on medium speed until soft peaks form. 

In an additional mixing bowl, combine coconut oil and sugar. Beat on low speed until the oil and sugar whips together and becomes *fluffy (about 2 minutes). 

*If you haven’t creamed coconut oil with sugar before, please note that it will start out looking crumbly and then clump together before becoming smooth and eventually the consistency of a thick nut butter. It takes a bit longer than creaming soft butter with sugar (so, stick with it!).

Add in the egg yolks, and beat until the color has lightened a bit and the texture is fluffy (about 1 minute). Mix in the vanilla extract and orange blossom water just until combined. 

Working on the lowest speed, beat a third of the flour mixture into the sugar mixture until the flour is mostly incorporated. Add in half of the milk and beat to combine. Continue this process in the same order with the remaining flour and milk. 

Scoop a cup of the beaten egg whites into the batter. On low speed, mix until fully incorporated. Switching from the electric mixer to a spatula, add the remaining egg whites and gently fold them into the batter by hand, just to combine. If there are a few clumps or thin streaks of whites, that’s ok. 

Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan, spreading it evenly through the pan. Place in the middle of your oven to bake for 30-35 minutes or until the top begins to form small cracks and the center has risen. 

Cool on a baking rack for 10 minutes. Carefully remove the cake from the pan and continue cooling on the rack. Brush the top with orange blossom syrup in 2 or 3 installments, allowing a few minutes between brushings so the cake to soak up the syrup. Remove the parchment paper before serving.

The cake can be eaten as is or with a hearty smothering of jam. For a dressier finish, dust the edges with powdered sugar and decorate with chopped hazelnuts and/or edible flowers.